Friday, March 4, 2011

Secrets to No-Fail Caramel Sauce

One of my all time, hands-down favorite flavors in life is luscious, dark, sweet, intense, creamy and silky caramel sauce. Once, during a class I was teaching, a man asked, "You can MAKE caramel sauce?" I laughed and answered, "Of course you can. Where do think caramel comes from? A caramel plant? Oh how fun that would be!!!! I would plant one in every flavor." The simple truth is that caramel is just nearly burned sugar. Once you add a few other ingredients it can become a soft chewy caramel candy, a hard candy, a gooey caramel center to a truffle, a sauce, a coffee drizzle and even decoration in fancy pastries (think sugar dome on top of a couture dessert).  

Most people run screaming at the thought of melting sugar into a caramel. Some have tried, only to discover that what was supposed to be a sauce or candy just turned into a huge mess of grainy crystals. Frustration ensues and most will abandon the notion of making this very simple and easy recipe. I am here today to let you in on all the Pastry Chef secrets and science you will need to know to be successful every single time. Trust me, your friends and family will think you are a confectionery genius. 

First, lets talk sugar. There are two forms of sweeteners, simple (monosaccharides) and complex (disaccharides). Simple sugars are composed of a single type of carbohydrate and include glucose (plant-based sugar), fructose (fruit sugar) and galactose (part of milk sugar). Complex or compound sugars are composed of multiple types of carbohydrates and include lactose (glucose + galactose), maltose (double glucose) and sucrose (glucose + fructose). Sucrose is the granulated sugar we are all familiar with and is the most common sugar used to make caramels.

Since sucrose is a crystal, when melted (with or without the addition of water) it naturally wants to return to it's crystal state. So, how do you prevent this from happening? Pastry Chefs know adding an interferent substance such as glucose or acid will help block the formation of crystals in a concentrated sugar syrup. Typically you will see the addition of corn syrup, lemon juice or cream of tatar in a recipe. It is also a good idea to have a pastry brush with a cup of cold water near by when making caramel. If you notice tiny amounts of crystals forming on the side of the saucepan, simply brush them away with a small amount of water. 

If you have ever heard someone tell you that fat will cause crystallization in caramel that is simply not true. In fact, fat can help prevent crystals much like glucose or acid. Case in point, most toffee recipes start by melting equal parts butter and sugar.  While it as always a good idea to start with clean equipment, don't worry about the presence of fat wrecking your caramel.

Many caramel sauce recipes are very basic and include only sugar, water and cream. While I won't turn this version down, I like to enhance the flavor by boosting it with a few additions of subtle flavorings. One of my favorites is salted caramel. Another way you can customize your caramels is by infusing the cream with additional flavorings like rosemary, thyme, ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, citrus zest or berries. Simply heat your cream just the point where you see tiny bubbles around the edge then add the fruit, spice or herb and allow to steep for 30-45 minutes. You will want the cream to have an intense flavor so that it doesn't get over powered by the dark caramel.  Strain the cream and it's ready to add to your sauce.

So, now that you are armed with some scientific knowledge of sugars and how they work and some "chefy" ideas of how to transform the flavors of caramels, are you ready to try making caramel sauce again? I hope so. Here is my favorite. 

No-Fail Basic Caramel Sauce Recipe

Ingredients
2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup corn syrup 
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
3/4 cup heavy cream, room temperature or slightly warm
3 tablespoons butter, cut into 3 pieces  
1 teaspoon kosher salt *see note below*
2 teaspoons vanilla extract or paste 

Tools
4-quart heavy bottom saucepan 
cup of cold water
clean pastry brush
wooden spoon
Oven mitt

Method 
1) Measure sugar, water, corn syrup and cream of tartar into the saucepan and place over medium heat. Do NOT be tempted to start on high heat to make the process faster. This will result in the water evaporating too quickly before the sugar has a chance to dissolve and could encourage crystallization in spite of the presence of interfering agents like glucose or acid.
2) Stir gently with wooden spoon to combine the ingredients and begin dissolving. 
3) Brush down the sides of the saucepan with the cold water and pastry brush if you see any excess sugar on the sides from when you stirred the solution. Bring to a boil (3-5 minutes).
4) Once the sugar is completely dissolved and bubbling, turn the heat up to medium high and continue to monitor for crystals on the side. Your interfering agents (corn syrup and cream of tartar) should prevent crystallization but just in case, watch carefully. (8-10 minutes)
5) Your sugar will begin to turn a pale amber color. Very quickly the color will change to a deep dark amber color. If you notice that the color is changing unevenly, very gently swirl the pan (do NOT stir) to even out the color. You smell an intense caramel aroma. 
6) Remove pan from heat and place oven mitt on your hand for protection. Working quickly (to prevent the sugar from actually burning), pour the cream in the pot while stirring with the wooden spoon. The sugar will bubble up violently then subside. 
7) You may feel the sugar seize up in the center. Simply, return the pot to the stove and lower the heat back down to medium. Stir until you feel the caramel dissolve and form a silky, smooth consistency. 
8) Take the pan off the heat and add the butter one pat at time, stirring with the wooden spoon.
9) Stir in the salt and vanilla. 
10) Cool and enjoy. 

*Notes*
- Your caramel sauce will thicken slightly as it cools
- For an even salty flavor, add up to 1 Tablespoon of kosher or sea salt

Some extras to try....

I have even been known to sprinkle salt on a ice cream sundae. Sounds crazy but it really works. Think about the salty/sweet things you already love...chocolate covered pretzels or a frosty ice cream shake and hot salty french fries or maple flavored bacon. 

A great combination is pineapple sherbet, caramel sauce and sea salt flakes. It's a like fireworks on your tongue. It will make you oooh, ahhh and mmmmm! Or try this great sundae, cinnamon ice cream topped with salted almonds and golden honey (nature's caramel sauce). Happy eating!!!

Sources: On Baking, Second Edition and http://www.exploratorium.edu/cooking/candy/sugar.html

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Day Dreaming

I've been overwhelmed by life lately. I've allowed my personal drama to derail my focus. The dream, however, is never completely out of mind. I find myself day dreaming while I drive in traffic. On occasion I have even missed my exit while coloring in details of "The Dream".

I dream about opening my own cooking school in Texas...or even better, in the french countryside.

I dream about writing the cookbook that touches a broad audience.

I dream about building my dream kitchen with all the bells and whistles.

I dream about shooting a global food show with beautiful vistas and the wonder of new produce.

I dream about attending and presenting at food festivals.

I dream about discovering all the amazing restaurants right here in Houston.

I dream. I dream. I dream. I dream. I dream. I dream. I dream.

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Culinary Travel

For as long as I can remember, the moment I discovered my family was French, I wanted to visit and dine my way through France. Every time a milestone birthday loomed on the horizon I promised myself that this would be the year that I made it to Paris, with or without a lover to smooch along the way. 25 sailed by and so did 30 and 35. Now that my 40th birthday is exactly 938 days away, I am plotting my way across the sea.

In 2007 I set out to make my long-time dream of attending and completing Pastry School come true. In 2009 that dream became reality with highest honors. With degree in hand, I set out to find a job that combined all of my talents, passions and experience.

That same year I discovered my purpose in life, teaching. In the many varieties of jobs that I held, I was always placed in a trainer position. I trained people on registers, how to use computer software, how to make coffee drinks, how to apply makeup and even how to decorate cakes. My best friend (a Master Teacher) told me once, "You are what we call an intuitive teacher." In October of 2009 I landed what I thought was perhaps the best job I've ever had. Young Chefs Academy hired me as their Lead Teacher and Sales Manager. I spent the next year honing the crafts of both teaching and cooking. I learned so much about myself and was hungry for more.

When that door closed, I was forced to evaluate my job options. The same things kept coming up...food writing, culinary instruction, television and travel. How could I combine them all? How could I finally make my dream of having an intimate knowledge of my country of origin? How could I get paid to write  about food again (I was a contributing writer for Culinary Thymes magazine from 2002-2004)? How can I turn traveling to Europe into a paying gig? How can I get my mug on TV sharing my passion for food and travel?

I am abundantly grateful that I landed not one, but two Cooking Instructor jobs this year. One with Well Done Cooking Classes and the other with the famed Sur la Table. While teaching others about my passion for cooking fulfills me, I continue to dream of Paris and the country side of France. My sister and her husband just launched a new television series on A&E (Heavy). Once again, my dreams of a television show of my own flood my imagination. I continue to search my muse for a topic to write about in a cookbook. There must, there must, there absolutely must be a way to incorporate all these dreams into a career.

Of late I have been researching the idea of one of two things. One, trying to get hired to be a tour guide on culinary vacations to Europe. Two, going to school to learn the travel business myself and opening a business that combines both local casual cooking classes and food related travel.

I know that I have the power to watch my dreams become reality. I will live the dream!

Thursday, January 27, 2011

Meals and Memories

Pause for a moment and imagine eating your favorite meal. What is that meal?

Is it roast chicken with potatoes and green beans?  How about homemade mac 'n cheese? Could your favorite be spaghetti and meatballs? Does your Mom's fried shrimp or your Grandfathers stuffed crab come to mind? Maybe it's your Grandma's creamy southern-style mustard potato salad with her famous BBQ ribs that makes your mouth start to water just thinking about it.

Well mine is my Grammy's pot roast, rice and gravy, smothered okra, tomatoes from the garden and ice cream for dessert. I know I have cooked the meal just perfectly when I smell her kitchen in mine. There is something about those final moments just before dinner is ready when the aroma of the rice that creates a specific perfume in the air. I am instantly happy and comforted. I am ready to relive beloved memories and create new ones with my loved ones.

The proverbial "they" say that of all of our five senses, our olfactory sense (or sense of smell) has the most memory recognition. In addition, our olfactory cells are the only neurons capable of regeneration. Which is good news for cancer patients who lose their ability to smell. Amazingly enough we each have over 100 million olfactory sensors. The average person can detect over 10,000 individual smells.

With all this in mind, it's no wonder most of us associate a time, place or person with the smell of our favorite meals. We celebrate, comfort and continue traditions with the meals that we share.

So, please share...what's your favorite meal and what or whom does it remind you of?

Monday, January 10, 2011

Table of Content

I have been thinking about the Table of Contents for this cookbook. Would it be better to organize the chapters by Ingredient or Recipe or Region or Season? Pros and cons for each are significant. 

I like the idea of possibly organizing the book both by season and within each season by ingredients. I have the first Everyday Foods by Martha Stewart and love how she divided the book into seasons. I can flip to the current season by finding the colored pages on the side. 

On the flip side of that, I could arrange the book by chapters related to an ingredient and then inside each chapter divide into seasons or regions. 

Our first "production" meeting is scheduled for this Friday. We have lots of questions to answer. I am very interested to hear Azra's input and ideas. 

Y'all have a great week and happy Monday! 

Saturday, January 8, 2011

Blog, blog blog....blah, blah, blah

I am trying to work out how all this blog stuff works.

I see how some blogs have a "like" this on facebook link but not sure how to do that.

I would also like to know how to get more people to follow my blog.

And how bout all those people with ads down the side?

I would love to know some basic computer programming so I can customize the look of my blog.

I need to fill out my profile so that I can be a "public" something er other. 

Lots to learn and play with this weekend.

Thursday, January 6, 2011

2010 Food Trends Rewind

Food trends are just like fashion. If you are looking for "what's new" search back in time 20-30 years and bring it back to life or add a new twist and voila, you have a new trend. It might be in shoes, skirts, shag carpet, avocado kitchen appliances, boxy cars and yes, even food! Let's hit the rewind button and chew on a few of my favorite trends of 2010. Grab a fork and a napkin, it's going to be a tasty ride.

Healthier Breakfast Sandwiches
Seems like everywhere I turned this past year, from fast food chains to magazine articles, trendy healthier breakfast sandwiches were all the rage. The famed Dunkin Donuts introduced DDSmart. Their new line of healthy options is headlined by the "Egg White Turkey Sausage Flatbread Sandwich". It weights in at only 280 calories and 8 grams of fat. Even the long famed sandwich company, Subway, started waking up early to feed us their rendition of breakfast sandwiches. Their Black Forest Ham, Egg and Cheese sandwich is only 160 calories and 4 grams of fat.



Pic via   http://www.grubgrade.com/tag/dd-smart/


Have you noticed how that some chains think they can make us forget the name and stigma of the type of food they serve by changing the name to acronyms? Remember when Kentucky Fried Chicken became KFC? My point is, just because they call it DDSmart doesn't mean any of us are going to forget that they sell totally tempting donuts. Subway, on the other hand, has long touted themselves has the healthier option, so low-calorie breakfast seems like a natural step to me.


Whoopie Pies
2010 was defiantly the year of the Whoopie Pie. These adorable snack cakes hit it big on cooking shows, articles, bake sales and trendy parties. The first time I made them, I made the red velvet version (another hot trend this year). I think traditionally the cakes were more the size of your palm but, I really loved the idea of making them mini or two-bite size. If you missed this trend, a whoopie pie is two cookie like cakes sandwiched with a creamy filling. Little Debbie, eat your heart out!

My favorite book on the smile inducing subject is "Whoopie Pies: Dozens of Mix e'm Match 'em, Eat 'em up Recipes" by Sarah Bellingsley and Amy Treadwell. The book includes interesting cake flavors like Pistachio-Cardmom and even includes vegan alternatives and a savory batter for a delightful twist. The following chapter is all about the fillings. Thrilling flavors like Peachy Marshmallow, Maple Bacon, Salted Caramel, Matcha (green tea powder) Buttercream and Bacon-Chive Goat Cheese are perfect for creating your signature Whoopie Pie flavor for your next event. Your guest will gobble them up, so make lots.

Check them out online: Whoopie Pies: Dozens of Mix 'em, Match 'em, Eat 'em Up Recipes! $16.95 : Chronicle Books



Pic via   http://www.raisincake.co.uk/whoopie_pie/2008/10/whoop-whoop-whoop.html


Velvet Cakes
Last year I saw Red Velvet cakes, cupcakes and cake balls everywhere. Curiously I started seeing the entire rainbow of velvet cake recipes. This begs the question, what makes a cake a velvet cake? Well, I know that originally in Red Velvet recipes it was all about the science of baking. Most recipes use Dutch Processed processed cocoa powder and some form of acid like buttermilk to bring out the red color. Modern recipes use food color to boost the classic red color. In addition, to be a velvet cake the use of shortening or oil is used in place of butter to create a super-moist cake. This Christmas, Trina and I made a traditional version that used the bubbling chemical reaction of mixing baking soda and vinegar for the lift in the recipe. It really tickled the science geek and food nerd in us both.



Pic via  http://babyology.com.au/miscellaneous/eat-a-rainbow.html


French Macaroons
These little beauties are a perfect example of an old recipe coming back into fashion. They are tiny, poppable and lend themselves to an endless variety of color and flavor combinations. I love the chewy, marshmallow, meringue texture. Any time I see these treasures I have to try them. I've seen them in the famed Midtown Farmer's Market in the parking lot of Monica Popes genius restaurant T'afia. More recently, I walked through one of the pastry classes at HCC only to discover they were making pink Macaroons with cranberry chocolate ganache. They have become and will likely continue to rise in popularity at trendy events and weddings due to there chameleon ability to blend in with any color palette.  

Check out MFM website:  http://www.tafia.com/mfm.html




Pic via  http://kirbiecravings.com/2010/01/modern-french-macarons.html

Fresno Peppers 
Is it just me or has anyone else noticed that all the chefs on Food Network and sister Cooking Channel are apparently required to use and "love" this new pepper on the food scene? I looks and tastes very similar to a ripe jalapeno pepper. I am sure over the next year or two it will be a regular in your local grocery store. So, if you see them...try them in place of any fresh pepper you might use for a mild and sweet heat. 


Pic via   http://recipes.wikia.com/wiki/Fresno_pepper


Indian Spices
Be prepared for the Indian invasion. I have long loved the intoxicating alchemy of the blended spices used in Indian cooking. I am thrilled to see shows like Aarti Party introducing spices such as cardamom, coriander and turmeric into some of our favorite American dishes. My prediction is that Indian cuisine will be the next big global trend in American recipes, the way Mexican food has become common place in our daily foods from grocery stores to restaurants to cookbooks and fast food chains. I would be thrilled to have a Naan and Korma craving and be able to dash to my nearest "Near East" quick service drive-thru. Can I get an "Amen"? 


pic via   http://food-n-more.blogspot.com/2007_09_01_archive.html


Bacon and Sweets 
I have saved my favorite trend for last, the heaven-sent combination of anything sweet with crispy, salty, smokey BACON. I will never forget the first time I tasted chocolate and bacon. My friend Roni shared her Vosges Bacon Candy Bar with me and I was floored. This past year I made chocolate dipped bacon with smoked almonds in my class (ages 7-17) and at first no body wanted to try it. Once they did, with out fail, each and every kid wanted more. Then in the Fall we made French Toast Cupcakes with bacon in the batter, topped with cream cheese frosting and of course, more bacon. Parents from the Kinder class were lining up to collect the recipe from the "big kids" class when they tasted the salty/sweet/bacon combo. 

Another great sweet combination is one we have all been long familiar with, maple and bacon. They have been selling maple flavored bacon for years. We have secretly loved it when the syrup accidentally (or on purpose) spills from our pancakes to the bacon. So, is it really that far of a jump to cupcakes and donuts topped with glorious crunchy bacon? I think NOT! 





Pic via    http://www.royalbaconsociety.com/2008/08/29/french-toast-maple-bacon-cupcakes/


Check out Vosges online:  http://www.vosgeschocolate.com/category/bacon_candy_bars

So that about wraps it up for my little observations. What trends did notice or fall in love with last year? What do you think will be the next big trend in food in 2011?