Friday, March 4, 2011

Secrets to No-Fail Caramel Sauce

One of my all time, hands-down favorite flavors in life is luscious, dark, sweet, intense, creamy and silky caramel sauce. Once, during a class I was teaching, a man asked, "You can MAKE caramel sauce?" I laughed and answered, "Of course you can. Where do think caramel comes from? A caramel plant? Oh how fun that would be!!!! I would plant one in every flavor." The simple truth is that caramel is just nearly burned sugar. Once you add a few other ingredients it can become a soft chewy caramel candy, a hard candy, a gooey caramel center to a truffle, a sauce, a coffee drizzle and even decoration in fancy pastries (think sugar dome on top of a couture dessert).  

Most people run screaming at the thought of melting sugar into a caramel. Some have tried, only to discover that what was supposed to be a sauce or candy just turned into a huge mess of grainy crystals. Frustration ensues and most will abandon the notion of making this very simple and easy recipe. I am here today to let you in on all the Pastry Chef secrets and science you will need to know to be successful every single time. Trust me, your friends and family will think you are a confectionery genius. 

First, lets talk sugar. There are two forms of sweeteners, simple (monosaccharides) and complex (disaccharides). Simple sugars are composed of a single type of carbohydrate and include glucose (plant-based sugar), fructose (fruit sugar) and galactose (part of milk sugar). Complex or compound sugars are composed of multiple types of carbohydrates and include lactose (glucose + galactose), maltose (double glucose) and sucrose (glucose + fructose). Sucrose is the granulated sugar we are all familiar with and is the most common sugar used to make caramels.

Since sucrose is a crystal, when melted (with or without the addition of water) it naturally wants to return to it's crystal state. So, how do you prevent this from happening? Pastry Chefs know adding an interferent substance such as glucose or acid will help block the formation of crystals in a concentrated sugar syrup. Typically you will see the addition of corn syrup, lemon juice or cream of tatar in a recipe. It is also a good idea to have a pastry brush with a cup of cold water near by when making caramel. If you notice tiny amounts of crystals forming on the side of the saucepan, simply brush them away with a small amount of water. 

If you have ever heard someone tell you that fat will cause crystallization in caramel that is simply not true. In fact, fat can help prevent crystals much like glucose or acid. Case in point, most toffee recipes start by melting equal parts butter and sugar.  While it as always a good idea to start with clean equipment, don't worry about the presence of fat wrecking your caramel.

Many caramel sauce recipes are very basic and include only sugar, water and cream. While I won't turn this version down, I like to enhance the flavor by boosting it with a few additions of subtle flavorings. One of my favorites is salted caramel. Another way you can customize your caramels is by infusing the cream with additional flavorings like rosemary, thyme, ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, citrus zest or berries. Simply heat your cream just the point where you see tiny bubbles around the edge then add the fruit, spice or herb and allow to steep for 30-45 minutes. You will want the cream to have an intense flavor so that it doesn't get over powered by the dark caramel.  Strain the cream and it's ready to add to your sauce.

So, now that you are armed with some scientific knowledge of sugars and how they work and some "chefy" ideas of how to transform the flavors of caramels, are you ready to try making caramel sauce again? I hope so. Here is my favorite. 

No-Fail Basic Caramel Sauce Recipe

Ingredients
2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup corn syrup 
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
3/4 cup heavy cream, room temperature or slightly warm
3 tablespoons butter, cut into 3 pieces  
1 teaspoon kosher salt *see note below*
2 teaspoons vanilla extract or paste 

Tools
4-quart heavy bottom saucepan 
cup of cold water
clean pastry brush
wooden spoon
Oven mitt

Method 
1) Measure sugar, water, corn syrup and cream of tartar into the saucepan and place over medium heat. Do NOT be tempted to start on high heat to make the process faster. This will result in the water evaporating too quickly before the sugar has a chance to dissolve and could encourage crystallization in spite of the presence of interfering agents like glucose or acid.
2) Stir gently with wooden spoon to combine the ingredients and begin dissolving. 
3) Brush down the sides of the saucepan with the cold water and pastry brush if you see any excess sugar on the sides from when you stirred the solution. Bring to a boil (3-5 minutes).
4) Once the sugar is completely dissolved and bubbling, turn the heat up to medium high and continue to monitor for crystals on the side. Your interfering agents (corn syrup and cream of tartar) should prevent crystallization but just in case, watch carefully. (8-10 minutes)
5) Your sugar will begin to turn a pale amber color. Very quickly the color will change to a deep dark amber color. If you notice that the color is changing unevenly, very gently swirl the pan (do NOT stir) to even out the color. You smell an intense caramel aroma. 
6) Remove pan from heat and place oven mitt on your hand for protection. Working quickly (to prevent the sugar from actually burning), pour the cream in the pot while stirring with the wooden spoon. The sugar will bubble up violently then subside. 
7) You may feel the sugar seize up in the center. Simply, return the pot to the stove and lower the heat back down to medium. Stir until you feel the caramel dissolve and form a silky, smooth consistency. 
8) Take the pan off the heat and add the butter one pat at time, stirring with the wooden spoon.
9) Stir in the salt and vanilla. 
10) Cool and enjoy. 

*Notes*
- Your caramel sauce will thicken slightly as it cools
- For an even salty flavor, add up to 1 Tablespoon of kosher or sea salt

Some extras to try....

I have even been known to sprinkle salt on a ice cream sundae. Sounds crazy but it really works. Think about the salty/sweet things you already love...chocolate covered pretzels or a frosty ice cream shake and hot salty french fries or maple flavored bacon. 

A great combination is pineapple sherbet, caramel sauce and sea salt flakes. It's a like fireworks on your tongue. It will make you oooh, ahhh and mmmmm! Or try this great sundae, cinnamon ice cream topped with salted almonds and golden honey (nature's caramel sauce). Happy eating!!!

Sources: On Baking, Second Edition and http://www.exploratorium.edu/cooking/candy/sugar.html

No comments:

Post a Comment